Juniper
JOO-nih-per
Juniperus communis
Piney, resinous, citrusy, bittersweet.
What it is
Juniper is the dark blue-black berry of Juniperus communis, an evergreen conifer of the northern hemisphere, with a piney, resinous, citrusy flavor that is bittersweet and unmistakably the taste of gin, which it defines. In the kitchen it pairs with rich and gamey foods, cutting the fat of pork, duck, venison, and goose, and it is classic with braised cabbage and sauerkraut. The soft berries are crushed to release their oils and used sparingly, since the flavor is strong, then removed before serving.
What it pairs with
Goes wrong with: delicate, light dishes.
Common in French cooking.
Whole vs ground
The soft, dark berries are used whole, lightly crushed to release their oils. They are potent, so a handful flavors a large braise, and they are removed before serving.
How to handle it
Crush a few berries and add to braises, brines, and game marinades. Their piney resin suits rich, fatty meats and sauerkraut.
Storage
Airtight and dark. The berries are soft and keep their aroma for several months.
Buying note
Choose plump, soft, deep-colored berries. Hard, shriveled ones are old and weak. Note that only common juniper is used in cooking.
Classic dishes
sauerkraut, venison, gin, choucroute.
Out of juniper? Substitutes
No substitute is exact. These are the closest by flavor behavior, with the ratio to start from and how the result will differ.
| Use instead | Ratio | How it differs |
|---|---|---|
| a splash of gin | to taste | carries the same juniper note since gin is flavored with it |
| a little rosemary | use less | piney but without juniper's bittersweet citrus |
One odd thing
Juniper berries are what give gin its defining flavor, and the word gin itself traces back to a name for juniper.